Customer Reviews
An enthralling and poignant journey through Byzantium old and new - By: Jeremy Bevan, 03 May 2008 
This quite enthralling tale takes the reader on a journey through a slowly but inexorably declining culture, that of the Eastern Christian communities of the former Byzantine empire & neighbouring regions - contemporary Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel & Egypt. Inspired by, & reflecting throughout on, John Moschos' 6th-century work `The Spiritual Meadow', which was written at a similar `end of empire' time, Dalrymple embarks on a slow, bureaucracy-beset trip through remote parts of the region, including several of its most famous - as well as some forgotten -monasteries. Pretty well everywhere he goes, he finds the same tale: a Christian communityin decline due to persecution under Islam, nationalism, emigration & war - a war which is sometimes (asin Lebanon) of its own making. Never without humour (check out the story of a Damascus cabbie giving a nonplussed President Hafez Assad an ear-bending on the `phone after a prang with his limousinein the city's traffic), it's also a work laced with tragedy - with the Armenians & other Christiansin Turkey, together with the Christiansin Israel/the West Bank, the chief victims. Insightful, eye-opening & poignant.
The best book I've read recently - By: Mrs. J. Adshead, 16 Apr 2008 This is a brilliant book, very readable & informative. The descriptive writing is second to none, & tells the reader so much about the Byzantine Christianityin the Middle East, it's growth, progress, & what is left of it today, along with an insight into the present day lives of Christiansin the now mostly Moslem countries. At the same time it is a true travel book with all the highs & lows of the journey. I never wanted to get to the end.
A performative book - By: A. foley, 19 Mar 2008 I read this book about a decade ago & it still resonates. This book leads the reader through the past & the present of the East under the shadow of the Byzantine Empire. Shortly after reading this book, my wife & I went to Istanbul to see the remaining glory of Byzantium & there is still a lot to be seen: one experiences a real pathosin visting such a place, especially after reading this splendid travelogue. A particularly memorabe part of the book for me was his visit to St Antony's monasteryin Egypt & the story of the monk, who claimed to have seen a spectre of St Anthony.
Beautiful synthesis of spirituality & history - By: Mick Gold, 01 Jan 2005 I knew William Dalrymple as a fine travel writer after his early success with In Xanadu, a re-enactment of Marco Polo's journey to China. From the Holy Mountain attempts a more ambitious journey, & the author brings it off brilliantly. His narrative is a re-enactment of the travels of a 6th century Byzantine monk, John Moschos, who recorded the religious communities & the miracles he encounteredin his book, The Spiritual Meadow.
Dalrymple travelsin Moschos's footsteps, from Mount Athosin Greece, to the Great Oasis at Khargain Upper Egypt. The journey takes Dalrymple across Turkey, Lebanon, Syria & Israel before reaching his conclusion on the edge of the Sahara, surrounded by Egyptian army guards bristling with automatic weapons protecting him from Muslim fundamentalists.
The historical theme he brings to life is the way that Christianity began as a religion of the Middle East, centred on Alexandria & Constantinople, long before it became the established faith of Western Europe. But his travels take him through a series of conflicts: the Orthodox Church of Southern Turkey caughtin the cross fire of civil war between Kurd nationalists & the Turkish state. In Lebanon, he walks through the remains of the Maronite Christian community who have propelled their country into a disastrous civil war. In Israel, the Orthodox monks & the Palestinian Christians are trying to cope with the growth of Jewish settlements across the Holy Land. Andin Egypt, the Coptic Church is menaced by the growth of Muslim fundamentalism.
What makes the book special is the way Dalrymple can sink into Moschos's world. His eye for art & architecture brings the Byzantine world to life, & his ear captures conversations with monks who regard miracles & saints hovering above their monasteries as everyday events. The bizarre hallucinations & beliefs of the early Christian church become matter of fact occurrences as Dalrymple talks to Christians whose prayers, music & way of life have changed little over 1500 years. His outlook remains admirably compassionate. He brings off a journey through history that is intertwined with some of the nastiest conflicts of the 20th century. It's a lament to the disappearing world of Eastern Christianity, but it's also informative & spiritually very moving.
Great travelogue, sometimes a bit weak on facts - By: Gerard Lynch, 13 Jan 2004 
This book is depressing, consicence-alerting, yet great fun at the same time. Travelling from Mount Athos, via Istanbul to Turkish Kurdistan, then to Syria, Lebanon, Israel/Palestine & finally Egypt, Dalrymple surveys the condition of Near Eastern Christianity on the verge of the third Christian millennium. For the most part, this is a depressing story of a communityin terminal decline, facing pressure from extremists & economic chaos. While there is no doubt that his sympathies lie with the Christians, he can be deeply critical of them where he feels it is deserved - for example there is no doubt that the holds the Maronites of Lebanon almost entirely responsible for the Lebanese Civil War.
As a travelogue, it generally makes good reading, with an excellent balance between keeping the pace moving & covering people & placesin enough depth. His ability to conjure images of places is remarkable - really feel like I'm on the plains of the Tür Abdin, or winding down the mountain road from Damascus to Beirut with him. Sometimes, it has to be said, he lays on the 'gee-whiz I'm an Englishman abroadin scary countries with bombs & tanks & things' attitude a bit too much. While he occasionally has a factual lapse or three, he more than makes up for itin atmosphere.
Perhaps the most interesting & amusing sections deal with the various wacky heretical Christian sects which inhabited the shatterzone between the Greek & Persian worlds before the arrival of Islam.
This book annoyed a lot of extreme American fundamentalists (of both the Christian & the Jewish varieties) for being rather critical of Israel's decades-long campaign of cultural & economic pressure on the Palestinian Christians. What better recommendation to buy the book to you need!
One minor gripe, I never do trust fellow Celts who think of themselves as merely North- or West-Britons. Dalrymple regards English football hooligans rampaging through Istanbul as his 'fellow countrymen' stuck me as bizarre. Are you really a Scot, William?
And I have one big question if Dalrymple ever reads this... he seems not to speak a word of Turkish or Kurdish yet he seems to have these interesting conversations with Kurdish builders about the Armenians... Are all these guys fluentin English or something? 'Coz that's a part of the world I know very well, &in my experience, they don't English any more than your average Dunfermline brickie speaks Kurdish. If you can really do that without the lingo, William, could you give me a masterclassin sign language?
It also seems to fair to point out that the situation for Christiansin some parts of the Middle East, notably Turkey & Egypt, has improved considerablyin the 10 years since this book was researched.
